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Michael – I did the same as your plan !!! tapped out the correct size and LOCTITED the pegs in place.
HOWEVER, my plan is to drill and tap the footrest mounting threads into the end, and then put a 6mm cap head in from the back with a heavy duty stainless washer.
I am happy that is a good solution.
If you have facilities, a nice stepped alloy spacer would be good !
Hi TJ,
just to keep your level of Adrenaline:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fvNufZArrTQVideo starts with some 50cc moppeds but moves forward to serious stuff 😉
Cheers, Michael
Had a shock on prices of small nylon toothed drive wheels and belts!
So, plan B in action – use the OEM [ GSXR ] chain drive sprocket system.
After getting yet ANOTHER shock for the price wanted for a chain and sprocket – I ordered another pump – complete with chain and sprocket for sub £10 delivered.
Might require a small chain guard – but relatively straightforward.
The overall plan is now firmed up in my head – sketches over the next few days [ with delays for birthday celebrations ! ]- and I’ll post up for approval / criticism / etc.
Some pix next week when there’s more parts arrived.
So – none of the Suzuki experts could tell me the direction of rotation of the pump !!!
After some head scratching, I jury rigged some hose from the intake into a jar of petrol [ don’t try this at home kiddies ] and spun the spindle end with my power drill using the chuck tightened on the spindle !
Well, I can confirm that the pump is very efficient ! A litre of petrol was sprayed over the shed – and me, in very short order. However, I did manage to confirm that the pump rotates clockwise from the sprocket end – making my installation that much easier.
Actually THE most stupid thing I did was to remove the injector rail on my K1100 street fighter and cranked the engine over to determine if there was any fuel being delivered.
Oh dear, four miniature flame throwers and singed overalls !!!!! Could have been MUCH worse.I’m
And the newest most stupid thing …………… to ASSUME that the KZ [ like 90% of ICE engines ]runs clockwise viewed from the right. Or like most car engines clockwise viewed from the front !!
Thanx to Carsten over on the German site for pointing out the error of my thinking !!
Here is my excuse [ apart from a lifelong experience of clockwise rotating engines ! ] – apart from a 20 minute ride on a pal’s bike, I have no experience of a living, breathing engine. My engine has been dead on the bench since I bought the project 6 years ago and to date – I have never even looked inside !
Oh yes, my BMW Kay engines ran counterclockwise.
It would have become obvious when my new OEM workshop manual arrives next week, but Carsten has saved me a whole lot of trouble with my pump – even though it is easily remedied.
In fact, driving from the alternator side makes the packaging / installation a lot more simple.
So – suitably embarrassed at my own lack of knowledge – public thanx to Carsten.
I hope this now starts to make sense.
Drive from alternator centre screw, but will require an oil seal on the cover plate – maybe a new plate ?
I was going to get a sump made for the turbo oil return [ quote £55 ]- then came across this on Chinabay – £25 delivered !
Schematic for oiling system now roughly sketched and just waiting for my approval !
And a NEW oil cooler WITH 10AN swivel hose fittings … £29.00 as opposed to £37 for the fittings alone in the UK to modify my s/h cooler.
I want to look again at my first idea to mount the pump internally [ similar to ChrisLWG ] – which way does the sprocket rotate in this view ?
The kicker will be if there is sufficient depth from the mounting face [ as Chris ] to the sump base AND the centreline of the OEM sprocket drive.
Carsten has showed concern [ valid ] about the pressure being taken off solely for the turbo. The pump is regulated to bye-pass at around 55psi – too high for the turbo [ 35psi ]. But I have already thought about this and have a couple of options – a lighter relief spring to release at say 40 psi – or a restrictor / regulator in the feed. There will be a pressure gauge situated at the turbo oil intake to monitor the situation.
The high volume is not a problem as it only feeds the 1 ltr oil cooler.
None of this is written in a workshop manual !!!
I have made some space in my garage [ and some much needed funds ! ]by selling off my V6 Volvo engine and gearboxes [ x 3 ].
That means I can now actually get to my bike ramp AND my old KZ engine, which is sitting on it !
So next job is to drain the engine, whizz the sump off and have a good look at the OEM oil pump and more important – the space I have to play with. Hopefully that will tell me if the internal siting of the Gixer oil pump is a goer or not. That is much the preferred option – but I have to see if it is practical.
I’ll also remove the other covers to get a better idea of the condition inside.
And as a stand by – I pulled the trigger on one of the Chinabay electric pumps. Courtesy of a bit of spare cash from the Volvo garage parts sale !it arrived FOUR days later and is very substantial and well made.
Now I have several options to the Turbo oil supply question.
The pump won’t be wasted if I don’t get to use it on the bike project – as it will see duty on my supercharged Volvo 940 Estate project. Yes, another ongoing plaything !
What isn’t obvious from the pic is the the size and weight ! It must be about 4lbs and around the size of the KZ starter motor !
Hi TJ,
I had a “dry ice blast” to my engine before I’ve removed any cover.
It was approx. 100,- Euros for that but it is worth it 😉Having your bikes condition in mind, that would be a great help to work on a clean engine without the rest of the “green”.
Finally I have understood the additional oil pump installation. It is in addition to the stock oil pump but driven from the same sprocket on the balancer shaft.
Well, took a while 😉That looks very feasable to have high pressure and high volume, as needed.
The electric fuel pump may push a high volume, but I can’t believe it has a high pressure output.
On the other hand it is 12V x 6A = 72 Watts. Our starter motor has about 500 to 700 Watts, not sure.
I expect this pump to be (much) smaller than the starter motor.One question:
How do you tell the electric pump that it’s job is required ?Ignition on and pump on seems to be to easy ? Manual switch to be actuated bears a high risk of forgetting to do so.
Engine runs (indicated via stock oil pressure sensor?) turns the electric pump on ?
Cheers, Michael
PS: Pic shows the dry ice cleaned engine, which looked horrible before.
Michael,
yes my engine IS in a very poor external condition ! I hope to be pleasantly surprised when I look inside !
However, I have been soaking it every week or so for the past 3 months with engine de-greaser to loosen the worst of the mess. All that loose stuff is off now – not too bad at all.
I have a Soda Blasting pot which I plan to use before strip down. My pal has a big beast compressor if my “hobby” unit does not have enough pressure.
Electric pump – this is a last preferred option.
Yes, pump on with ignition on [WITH activated light ]-BEFORE starting. This way I have a supply of oil to the turbo before it runs.
That also means I can run cool oil through the turbo after the engine stops running – like my old Alpine GTA Turbo.
I have asked the manufacturers of the pump for the specs – particularly pressure. I already have volume – 14 litres / minute.
Without question – the Gixer oil pump is the best solution, internal preferred – external if I have to.
Yes, you have it exactly – driven from the same spindle as the OEM pump. ALL that depends now on the distance from the mounting face [ see ChrisLWG’s set up ]to the centres of the drive wheel. As long as that distance is GREATER than the centre to the Gixer pump, I can use that drive.
Of course, I have not taken into account the electrical requirements yet ! You KNOW that I am an electrical imbecile !
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